A Peaceful Escape to Goygol, Ganja, Azerbaijan

 

Statue of a Traditional Drummer in Ganja Museum, Azerbaijan

Ganja, which was once the capital of Azerbaijan for a short time. 

Although it's the third largest city in Azerbaijan, the people there describe Ganja as a fading countryside. 

 As Ganja residents call Azerbaijan the 'Baku (the current capital of Azerbaijan) Republic,' it's a city that gives an old rural feeling far from the splendor of Baku, but on the other hand, it was a city full of peace and freedom. 

 It is a historic city built in the 5th century, and as it was the capital of the first secular, newly democratic republic among Islamic world countries that existed for two years until it was occupied by the Soviet Republic about 100 years ago, the people here took pride in their city but simultaneously felt alienated from Baku.

A cheerful dog enjoying its time at the City Hall Square in Ganja, Azerbaijan.

A scenic sunset view of the City Hall Square in Ganja, Azerbaijan.

An open-air amphitheater in a public park in Ganja, Azerbaijan.

Although it is said that the city is being neglected as if forgotten due to political issues with the privileged classes of Baku, the historical monuments and buildings were still maintained very neatly and elegantly. 

 While quite far from Baku on the map, I could frequently meet foreign travelers trying to cross the land border to Georgia, and since prices were cheaper compared to Baku, it wasn't burdensome to stay for a while. 

However, perhaps because there were fewer Asian travelers compared to Baku, people would occasionally approach me with curiosity, and somehow I ended up taking photos with extended families. 

 While chatting with friends over tea at a restaurant, I went to the bathroom, and an elderly man spoke to me in incomprehensible English and Russian, asking me to follow him for a moment. 

I was a bit scared, but since he seemed to be a visitor to the restaurant, I followed without much suspicion. The old man took my hand and personally seated me at a table where an extended family was sitting. 

With a bewildered expression, I sat down, and a girl who appeared to be the granddaughter looked at me and asked if I was Korean. 

 When I said yes, the child became very happy and started explaining something to her grandfather and family. 

I couldn't understand everything they were saying, but roughly guessing, the child was talking about the K-dramas and K-pop she watches, and the family was translating it to me in English. 

Although our conversation didn't flow well due to limited English, I roughly answered that I was thankful they watched Korean dramas and that I liked Azerbaijan too, then took commemorative photos. 

 It seemed that when I arrived here, the granddaughter saw me sitting at the opposite table and asked her grandfather to bring me over. 

I felt sorry that I couldn't make the family happier because I wasn't fluent in Azerbaijani or Russian.

Despite it being evening time, children and families were playing happily. There are small rides for children here

As the sun began to set and it was around quitting time, people started gathering one by one. My friend was on the verge of calling over all the young people in the neighborhood. 'Min, there are no introverted people in Azerbaijan.

Of course, there must have been some exaggeration, but as my friend said, the empty seats at the table were soon filled with friends. 

I was a bit worried because I'm somewhat shy, but the friends didn't mind me and each engaged in lively conversations while asking me questions without pause, keeping me busy without any awkwardness. 

They wanted to show me a place called 'Goygol' rather than Ganja. They said if I could stay for a few days without worrying about time, I could see a beautiful lake and natural environment, but unfortunately, I told them I couldn't stay long due to my travel schedule, so they were a bit disappointed and suggested we meet again in the future. 

 Instead, we decided to visit the German village in Goygol, which is a short distance from Ganja, and nearby places the next day, excluding the distant lake.

A tribute to fallen soldiers at a memorial site in Ganja, Azerbaijan.

Here too, one could see architectural styles and monuments from the Soviet era. Azerbaijan also had about 600,000 men who had to go to the battlefield during World War II, and nearly half of them were sacrificed. In Ganja, there is a building with a sad history related to this war, known as the 'Bottle House'.

The iconic Bottle House in Ganja, Azerbaijan, built using thousands of glass bottles.

After the war ended, a man who returned to his hometown built a house by collecting tens of thousands of bottles and colorful stones to commemorate his missing brother (according to a friend who accompanied me, it was to find him). 

The completed house was so beautiful and unique that it was introduced to other countries shortly after construction was finished, but contrary to the brother's wishes, sadly, the younger brother never returned.

Creative street art of a rocket on a wall in Ganja, Azerbaijan

Decorative fountain statues in a scenic garden in Ganja, Azerbaijan.

A view of the historic domed bathhouse architecture in Ganja, Azerbaijan.

A traditional hammam scene illustrated in a painting, capturing the bathhouse culture of Ganja, Azerbaijan.

A cinematic depiction of a traditional bathhouse scene being filmed in Ganja, Azerbaijan.

Unlike an old city that is being forgotten, I quite liked strolling the streets where I could see innovative and free-spirited designs and well-preserved heritage. 

Also, perhaps due to the influence of Islamic culture, public bathhouse facilities have been maintained from the distant past until recently. 

 According to the caretaker's explanation, it is a scientifically designed facility that can maintain warmth for a long time with just a small fire. And they said that if you pay, you can still use the facilities here yourself.

A memorial in Ganja commemorating Turkish martyrs who fought in Azerbaijan.

A monument commemorating friendship with Turkey. As a Korean who doesn't have a country that can truly be called a close brother, this atmosphere felt enviable. Even now, it seemed that someone—whether Turkish or Azerbaijani, I couldn't tell—had passed by and left flowers in front of the monument. 

My friend gathered together the flower bouquet that had been scattered by the wind, and I asked him: 

 'Have Azerbaijan and Turkey always been friendly?' 

 'Yes, we've always been brothers.' 

 My friend answered without a moment's hesitation. Throughout long history, how many countries exist in the world that can call each other brothers and help and protect one another? When I imagined our country becoming one that calls China and Japan brothers and cherishes them, it felt endlessly awkward. 

In the turbulence of history, one country became part of the Soviet Union and one country became a NATO member. Despite relations divided by political ideology, the two countries didn't hesitate to call each other true brothers, and although the Soviet Union tried hard to block Turkey's influence, it could never break the friendship between the two countries.

When the Soviet Union collapsed in 1991, Turkey was also the first country to recognize Azerbaijan's independence.

A dreamy night view of streetlights lining a path in Ganja, Azerbaijan.

Here is some additional information and precautions: 

There is a bus from Baku to Ganja. As I remember, it was about 10 dollars or so. When you arrive in Ganja, visit Goygol Lake and the German village located around it. It's a really wonderful place. 

Although it's away from Azerbaijan's capital, I heard that many travelers pass through here because it's close to other countries' borders. The people here are amazing and kind.