Abadeh, City of Carvings Depicting Life

 

The green neon letters of Abadeh light up the night, marking the entrance to the city with a modern glow

Located 3 hours south of Isfahan, in the central inland region at an altitude of 2,000 meters, Abadeh is a small city with a population of about 60,000 - similar in size to Sokcho city in Gangwon Province (a small city where I briefly lived during my school years). Compared to other cities, it is not large in scale and transportation options are limited. 

In the past, due to transportation constraints, the journey to this place would have been even more challenging than it is today. 

Nevertheless, it was a place frequented by numerous merchants, and its artisans have maintained their reputation throughout Iran for over a thousand years

The desert like place of Abadeh. But someday, flowers will bloom and grow here too.

(A scene from the movie Lawrence of Arabia)

Although well-paved roads have been constructed in many areas now, in the past, merchants who traveled long distances from Isfahan, the former imperial capital, and from far beyond the northwestern imperial borders, had to risk encountering treacherous terrain and bandits lurking in various places. 

However, the rare luxury goods produced here and gifts for young nobles' brides-to-be were sufficient compensation, worth risking one's life during the arduous journey. Befitting a city that has maintained its craftsmanship for thousands of years, massive carvings stood majestically from the entrance of Abadeh, which one reaches after crossing steep and barren mountains and hills. Even today, numerous handcrafted items continue to be produced here and exported throughout Iran, and many facilities for training artisans still remain.

 The Private Museum of Abadeh

 "Min, if you're okay with it, there's someone I'd like to introduce you to. They've been collecting artworks for generations and run a private museum in their home. They're waiting for you." 

 On my second day in Abadeh, I was invited to the home of a collector who operates a private museum, where I could appreciate numerous craft works. 

Most of them were woodcarvings and were being very carefully maintained. Accompanied by the couple who had introduced me to this place, I carefully observed the artifacts. 

Among them, what caught my eye most was a gun and its components that were presumably used by someone estimated to have been a cavalry officer. The collector gladly opened the frame and allowed me to touch it.

 "Not only the beautiful and intricate patterns, but also the feather-light weight is an important element that proves the skill of the local artisans. And these crafts were also used in everyday life." 

 The resilient trees that took root and survived in the barren, arid land maintained their solid form even after being processed and lasting for hundreds of years, and were used in daily life beyond merely decorative purposes. 

If I remember correctly, this light and sturdy large spoon was used for serving ice cream or snacks.

 (A carving depicting the image of humans being created from wind and clay, along with angels and the holy, great God) 

 "Did you find the faces of people in this carving? What's interesting is that Eve, being a woman, has a beard." 

 Over the past thousands of years, the city's art-loving inhabitants have breathed their souls into their work, transcending time and space. 

The pattern carving of Adam and Eve, the first humans, was as delicate as if alive and moving, just as the artisans' spirits had seeped into their works.

Even under Islamic influence, they did not forget the traces of their ancestors, so patterns and images symbolizing ancient Persia remained throughout their works. 

I could also see chess boards that were made for the nobility and the wealthy.

At another museum I visited, I could view even older items, and it seemed that the people here were skilled not only in woodworking but also in metal processing. 

This small city was filled with numerous crafts, and even now, if you go to the traditional market, the bazaar, there are reportedly famous artisans for whom you must wait a long time due to their reputation.

Somehow, I ended up doing a broadcast interview for the first time in my life.

I had taken time to think about what I wanted to say, but when I tried to speak in front of the camera, my mind went blank, resulting in several NGs and requiring multiple takes. 

Although some awkward parts remained in the end, fortunately, it went well overall. 

The broadcasting staff warmly welcomed this traveler from a faraway place to Abadeh and thanked me for participating in the interview.

As always happens, on my way back after the broadcast, thoughts of things I hadn't expressed and parts I could have done better came to mind. 

But I decided to cherish even those awkward, imperfect aspects of myself as good memories.

In a rapidly changing world, where people chase new dreams, perhaps they wanted to capture the soul of magnificent art everywhere, despite changes in time and space.

Although it was an old, small city, the night shone with beautiful, modern lighting, and though not as much as a metropolis, the people here seemed to hope that this place would not always remain stuck in the distant past, planting elements of modern design throughout. 

 The city was not only filled with artisans. I also met children who had come outside because they were bored with school lessons, and received a wonderful photograph as a gift from a photojournalist who travels the world. 

Sunset Reflections on a Calm River They believed that art could be contained not just in carvings and metal, but in everything they pursued and loved

Here is some additional information and precautions: 

• When activating your phone, be sure to ask if they can install a VPN for you. It will be a great help to you. Never forget this. If the employee is a very nice person, give them a small tip and then look for a paid VPN. Free VPNs are sufficient, but paid VPNs perform very well. 
• The Snapp app is almost essential for travelers. If you have a close local friend, ask for their help. It has all the necessary functions such as delivery, finding accommodation, calling taxis, etc 
• When calling a taxi with the Snapp app, drivers often cancel for intercity travel because the price is too low. Once a driver accepts your call, try to negotiate paying more with a Persian message. While there are drivers who will take you to your destination at the price suggested by the Snapp app, if you can't get a Snapp taxi for a long time, it wasn't bad to offer about 1.5 times the price via message. Even if you offer a slightly higher price, it is still very reasonable compared to travel in other countries. If all else fails, try finding taxi drivers directly and negotiate the price. 
• In Abadeh, there are affordable accommodations that cost around $10-20. You can make reservations using the Snapp app, or search on Google.