Baku, Azerbaijan – Where Tradition Meets Modernity

 

The strikingly designed Dəniz Vağzalı sea terminal in Baku, Azerbaijan.

The Land of Fire: Azerbaijan.  

Just 10 years ago, it was a country difficult to decide to visit spontaneously due to challenges with visa-free entry. Baku, the capital of Azerbaijan, which I happened to visit during an airport transit in 2016. That brief time became the catalyst for revisiting this country still unfamiliar to many Koreans. 

 "Someday, I will definitely visit Azerbaijan again!"

The 1 manat coin that had been sleeping in my drawer for a long time still held the same value of 700 KRW(0.49 USD). 

My promise to the Azerbaijani people that I would return to this country someday also remained unchanged. My decision to travel to Azerbaijan was made a very long time ago. In my childhood, with a nervous heart, I went to the ticketing counter with an online ticket I had printed to go on my first overseas trip, but I was refused ticket issuance. 

The reason was that transit through Baku, Azerbaijan on the way to Ukraine was impossible. The flight attendant said that in 20 years of working, they had never seen a ticket with such a route, and after checking, they were 99% sure I wouldn't be able to pass through Baku, Azerbaijan, trying to convince me and my family who had come to see me off. 

While I was scared and confused due to my family's restraint and the flight attendant's firm attitude, I suddenly remembered the contact information of an Azerbaijani friend I had met by chance. 

With little time left, I sent a message explaining my situation with trembling hands and anxiously waited for a reply. Not long after, I received a response from that friend. "Min, I called the Baku airport. You can pass through here. Just come." Still not free from fear, I signed the document the flight attendant required, and leaving my family's worries behind, I headed to the departure gate.

A stunning aerial view of Baku as the plane descends toward the airport.

Although we couldn't meet as I was only able to transit due to visa issues, thanks to the precious time that friend gave me back then, I was able to embark on my first overseas trip, and that journey became a turning point in my life.

That day was truly a strange one. I, who was usually very cautious and fearful, made a decision that was unlike my normal self. 

Even now, I don't regret the seemingly foolish decision I made. Sometimes, even in frightening situations where success seems unlikely, it's necessary to listen to your soul's voice and be on your own side. 

 If it's a challenge for myself, it's okay even if I fail. Life happens only once, and after death, everything turns to dust anyway.

A tour sign offering excursions around Baku next to a photo capturing local street life.

Azerbaijan Itinerary: 7 days Budget: Around 559 USD 

New Delhi → Baku one-way flight ticket: 139 USD Accommodation → Single room hotel in Baku: early 20 USD per night, Hostel in Ganja: mid 7 USD 

Food expenses → Average 7-14 USD per meal (2 meals a day) Total: 139 USD Transportation costs → Intercity public transportation - inexpensive (around 7 USD), Taxi - inexpensive (around 3 USD for travel within Baku, 6-7 USD for 42km travel to suburban areas) 

Gifts and treating others to meals: 69-139 USD Travel difficulty level: Easy  

Now, entering Azerbaijan has become easier. If you apply for a visa online, you will receive approval in about 3 days. You just need to print it out and take it with you, and I remember there was also a visa-on-arrival option

A symbol of strong diplomatic ties between Pakistan and Azerbaijan.

What I felt after the first day in Azerbaijan was that Azerbaijanis were quite extroverted people. 

True to being Turkey's genuine brother nation, they approached me kindly and spoke comfortably. I even called a taxi using Bolt, but another taxi driver came and seriously tried to convince me that he was indeed my Bolt driver (despite having a different license plate number), following me for quite a while, and I almost got in. 

Most were extroverted, and some occasionally had shamelessness as a passive trait. It's unavoidable at airports. 

But having traveled to many countries, this kind of brazen taxi behavior was a first for me. 

The accommodation where I stayed for two days had many Indians and Pakistanis. Though it was inexpensive lodging, it was very clean and safely managed, and there I was able to recover from slight aftereffects that remained after eating Indian street food in Delhi earlier. Indians were present in every country I visited. 

In contrast, Pakistanis were hard to find in other countries, but right here in Baku, I could see quite a few Pakistanis. 

I remember someone there telling me that Pakistan and Azerbaijan have signed a military cooperation

agreement, and if war breaks out in either country, they've promised to help each other a blood alliance. 

Thanks to the good relationship between the two countries, many Pakistanis who came to work were visible. 

There were Indians at the same hostel, but they generally seemed to get along well without conflicts. I often chatted with them while drinking the chai they shared, but since most of them had to work during the day, there was no opportunity to travel together.

A street view of Baku’s iconic sea terminal with traffic in motion.

The capital Baku was a city that gave a modern feeling. The Old Town, a historic place in Baku, had a classic feel but didn't give the impression of being old or dirty. During the day, I visited the Old Town, and at night, I wandered around the center. 

As evening fell, the city center was adorned with very brilliant lights. Under the illumination that brightened the park, people were bustling about, and the air was filled with the scent of the sea.

Baku’s lively boulevard glowing at night, with views of the iconic Flame Towers

True to being a Muslim country, there were people wearing clothes with religious characteristics, but they were a minority. 

Later, a bearded man I was chatting with on the bus told me: 

"I hate the people here. You can't find real Muslim believers here. They're all infidels and will fall into hell." 

 And when I worriedly relayed this story to my friend from ganja, she snorted and said: "Min, don't worry too much. He said he couldn't go to the military because he was injured? That's probably a lie. 

Usually, such people are subjects of interest, and the government manages them so thoroughly that they can't even go to the military."  

There seemed to be some regional and religious conflicts lurking beneath the surface, but they weren't easily visible externally. Just as people from the provinces speak of Azerbaijan

as if it were the "Baku Republic," at least in Baku, it was safe until late at night and was a very friendly city for travelers.

A glimpse of daily life in Baku, where tradition and modernity meet under the sun.

A sweet moment with a street cat enjoying affection on a sunny day in Baku.

If there's a similarity with Turkish people, it's that people really love cats. And the fact that they smoke a lot. Everywhere, you could see people of all ages and genders smoking. However, the streets were kept clean

A laundromat touchscreen where users select and activate washing machines.

The cost of living didn't feel expensive, but by the standards of Azerbaijanis' income (7,155.08 USD annually in 2023), it was a very expensive city. 

Except for basic necessities like vegetables and produce, prices felt burdensome compared to income. 

Moreover, the cost of laundry in Baku was incomprehensibly expensive. Even self-service laundry cost about 20 manats = 10 USD, and when I visited a laundromat directly, the cost of professional laundry service was even more expensive. 

 Therefore, if you plan to stay in Baku, I recommend just paying an extra 7-14 USD and staying somewhere with a washing machine.

The day after arriving in Baku, I met the friend who had helped me with my first trip 10 years ago. She, who had been a student in her 20s, had become a successful businesswoman with a caring and wonderful husband. 

Despite having to maintain a busy daily life, they had submitted vacation requests to coincide with my arrival schedule and came to meet me.

A quiet street in Baku’s Old City, where history and charm meet.

A lively scene on Nizami Street, where locals and pigeons share the plaza.

In Baku's Old Town, one could see somewhat simple buildings that retained the legacy of the Soviet era. 

However, most of the buildings were constructed before the Soviet period, and there were many well-preserved streets where you could feel the history and culture with a classic European flair depending on the location.

Having gone through the turmoil of the 1900s to welcome a new era, and then facing new challenges as that era collapsed, Azerbaijan nonetheless preserved its history and identity in the Old Town, like the sturdy bricks they had built up. 

Azerbaijanis take pride in this Old Town and often fall into nostalgia, reminiscing about memories from long ago. 

For them, even the small bricks embedded in the ground were precious heritage

Here is some additional information and precautions: 

• It's similar in other countries and Korea as well, but always be careful when calling a taxi at the airport. It's not impossible to use Wi-Fi inside Baku airport to call a taxi, but once you go outside, the internet connection will be lost, so please make sure to accurately remember the taxi's number and vehicle. I experienced a case where another taxi driver claimed to be the taxi I had called.
• Laundry costs in Baku are very expensive. When booking a hotel, I recommend reserving accommodation with a washing machine.