On the Way to Isfahan – A Journey Across Western Iran

 

Western Iran’s arid landscape stretches endlessly as we drive toward Isfahan.

A quiet lake reflects the blue sky on a roadside stop in western Iran.

An empty concrete structure stands alone in the golden fields of western Iran.

Across the plains that stretched beyond the western hills, wandering whirlwinds could be seen here and there. 

By the time these whirlwind gusts, which repeatedly appeared and disappeared like the souls of the lost dead wandering without destination, were no longer visible, traces of old buildings left like long-abandoned ruins and small rural villages of about a dozen households emerged, and near these small villages, at small ponds where water was collected, a few people were gathering to spend their leisurely time despite the hot weather.

A densely built hillside city unfolds beneath the dry mountains of western Iran.

Driving through a quiet mountain town in western Iran, with the hills rising behind the buildings.

The city of Paveh, where Hamid's brothers and relatives lived and where I briefly stayed on the way from near the western border to Isfahan, was once a small village where Zoroastrians lived. 

 Despite thousands of years having passed, a Zoroastrian sanctuary preserved until now remained at the top of the city's mountain. 

It is said that ancient people built their sacred sites at high places because they believed that the fire they held sacred should be lit at high places where their god could look down upon it more closely. 

 The fire lit at the mountain top would also have been a practical location that could be visible to believers in more distant places

A scenic view of a mountain valley city in western Iran, where greenery meets rugged peaks

Western Iran’s rocky mountains glow in the soft light of the setting sun.

Upon climbing to a high place overlooking the village, Hamid's family pointed to beyond the mountain in the photo, telling me their sacred site was there. 

As much time has passed since then, the exact location doesn't remain in my memory, but I think it might be the two small rocks rising on the right side of the photo. Ancient Zoroastrians have mostly disappeared into history, leaving only ruins, but Iranians have preserved the traces and history of their ancient ancestors relatively well. 

Although they believe in a different religion, some would talk about the times when ancient Persia was powerful and tell stories about their history, and even though their religion now is Islam, they would speak positively about ancient Persian traditional patterns and Zoroastrianism.

A quiet hillside stairway leads down to a densely packed town in western Iran.

At night, the colorful garden stairs come alive with lights and flowers in a quiet corner of western Iran.

Going up the sloped hillside that reminds one of Seoul's hillside town that are being forgotten in memories, there is a small dessert cafe where you can look down at the city's night view. 

Mochi is one of the popular snacks for the people here, including Hamid's family, and they told me they particularly like ice cream mochi. 

As we spent time drinking tea with various types of mochi and ice cream, each choosing one that appealed to us and placing it in a bowl, night had already fallen. 

 Returning home, the time spent tasting Iran's traditional snacks and sharing stories about travel, Iranian culture, and the lives of people here with a large family of more than a dozen people gathered, became a precious memory that started with a connection to a taxi driver met by chance on the street, leading to an invitation to the home of a family in a foreign country, where I could closely feel their life and culture. 

The fruits obtained from the orchard paths I walked with them and the pancakes cooked by women gathered on the roadside sometimes still feel nostalgic even now, after time has passed.

A lush green village sprawls at the foot of a dry mountain in western Iran.

Sharing a warm moment with a local in a beautiful mountain town of western Iran.

As morning broke, a journey to Isfahan began again, leaving behind feelings of regret. 

On the way to Kermanshah's bus terminal to go to Isfahan, the taxi driver asked if I liked Paveh, and took me to a hill, saying I should see the scenery here once more before leaving. 

During the trip, at the driver's request, we took several selfies and also read a Persian conversation book I had brought from Korea. They were very affectionate people

Snacking on a fresh cucumber during a hot road trip in Iran.

Along the way, small shops selling seasonal cucumbers were lined up. Perhaps because it was the hot summer, merchants were stacking piles of cucumbers and gesturing toward passing cars. 

 The taxi driver stopped by briefly and bought a basket of cucumbers. Then he offered me a cucumber. The driver, who kept watching to see if I was eating the cucumber or not, handed me a new cucumber every time I finished one. In the end, I had to keep eating until I emptied all the cucumbers in the basket😂😂😂

night view of paveh. they called paveh a shining jewel of iran.

• When entering Iran by land, try to avoid very late night arrivals. If you enter late at night, you won't find any place to exchange money. It's also impossible to activate your mobile phone. 
• As of March 25, 2025, the current exchange rate in Iran is 98000 tomans to 1 dollar. 
•  When I traveled there, it was approximately 57000 tomans 2024. 
• Prices are very affordable. I stayed at economy hotels for about $8-20. Although sometimes the toilet had low water pressure, I was generally satisfied, and people were friendly. 
• When activating your phone, be sure to ask if they can install a VPN for you. It will be a great help to you. Never forget this. If the employee is a very nice person, give them a small tip and then look for a paid VPN. Free VPNs are sufficient, but paid VPNs perform very well. 
• The Snapp app is almost essential for travelers. If you have a close local friend, ask for their help. It has all the necessary functions such as delivery, finding accommodation, calling taxis, etc
• When calling a taxi with the Snapp app, drivers often cancel for intercity travel because the price is too low. Once a driver accepts your call, try to negotiate paying more with a Persian message. While there are drivers who will take you to your destination at the price suggested by the Snapp app, if you can't get a Snapp taxi for a long time, it wasn't bad to offer about 1.5 times the price via message. Even if you offer a slightly higher price, it is still very reasonable compared to travel in other countries. If all else fails, try finding taxi drivers directly and negotiate the price. 
•  The journey from Uraman Takht to Paveh took about 2-3 hours. Taxi is the only effective means of transportation. When I went from Marivan to Uraman Takht, I got the contact information of the taxi driver who accompanied me and requested him for pickup. The pickup cost from Marivan + to Paveh was about $15-20. I think there will be local drivers in Uraman Takht who can take you to Paveh. The locals are very kind, so you should ask them. Since it's a famous tourist destination, they will surely exist.