The Day I Set Off for New Delhi

Even in hot weather, the sky always looks blue and cool.

On June 20th, at the height of the summer heat, I headed to the airport with my 20kg checked luggage and 8kg carry-on. Following Ukraine, my first travel destination ten years ago, I had been planning since the beginning of the year to once again venture to a distant, unknown country. 

Since Ukraine is currently in the midst of war, I had no choice but to explore other neighboring countries. So I planned to start in India, then travel to Azerbaijan, cross the land border into Iran and traverse from its north to south. 

Afterward, I would meet friends in Turkey and the Netherlands, then stay in the mysterious Eastern European places of Moldova and Transnistria, before finally ending my journey in Romania.

If I had had more money and time, I would have loved to see the quiet winter sea under the northern lights in Murmansk, Russia, but that wasn't possible. 

 There were many concerns and worries from those around me. I constantly had to face questions and concerns about why I needed to go to lesser-known countries that might be dangerous, rather than well-known destinations in Europe or Southeast Asia. 

 Based on communications with local friends and travel information collected from international travelers, I was convinced that this journey wouldn't be as dangerous as people thought. 

Of course, this was just my prediction, but I chose to trust the data I had researched and the stories from my local friends rather than worry about vague assumptions

There were occasional moments of crisis during my travels, but nothing too serious. Rather, through this journey, I felt human compassion more than the beauty of nature. As a man I met in Azerbaijan said, at the end of a long journey, what remains in your memory are the people—a sentiment I came to agree with.

India Itinerary: 4 nights, 5 days Budget 

Used: Approximately $627 

Incheon -> New Delhi one-way flight on Korean Air: $278 

Accommodation: Around $24 per night, total $111 

Food: Less than $7 per meal (two meals a day), total about $70 

Transportation: $1-6 per trip 

 Miscellaneous expenses: $139 ($56 for an overpriced evening at a bar + $14 from being scammed by taxis three times + chocolates and masala chai from the airport duty-free shop, etc.) 

When I arrived at Indira Gandhi Airport, I could see many Korean people around. Not just young travelers, but also elderly couples and middle-aged people. I chatted with individuals who had various purposes for their visit—some were seeking peace of mind, and there was even a monk who came for ascetic training. 

In New Delhi, I didn't have any specific destinations in mind. I simply came to meet a friend and enjoy handmade street food. I just liked the Indian vibe, though it was difficult to explain exactly what that meant

Looking back now, I think I wanted to escape from my overwhelming and stressful daily life to experience a completely different world. 

Having worked in the service industry for a long time with my introverted personality, I always felt pressured by being observed and uncomfortable dealing with people. 

But here, I felt I wouldn't be embarrassed no matter what I did. India is also a place with intense academic competition and remnants of the caste system. 

Of course, people there experience their own forms of discrimination and pressure. However, among the countries I've experienced, India offered a relatively free atmosphere for me as a foreigner. 

 People would just approach me to take photos, unhesitatingly come up to ask questions, and I could chat comfortably. 

Many people could speak English, and accents weren't a big concern—if I didn't understand, I could just ask again. 

 As a male traveler, I don't think I felt major security threats. I only stayed in New Delhi and didn't specifically seek out places considered dangerous. 

Police were patrolling everywhere, and even when I walked around at dawn, people didn't pay much attention

Despite the hot weather, I explored various places in New Delhi. I wanted to see cows, but it turned out to be quite difficult to spot them.😂

I'd heard there were many scams, and I also experienced a lot of stress from taxis. However, the stress was relieved later when I started using apps to call taxis. For currency exchange, I had information about a famous Indian person named Navin who helps with exchange and travel assistance. 

I contacted Navin in advance through KakaoTalk and requested airport pickup (I remember it cost about $7). 

I exchanged money there and took a taxi that Navin called to get to my hotel. 

As is well known, prices were extremely cheap, and there were quite a few exciting things to enjoy *Navin Kakaotalk : naveen1989 https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCe1GshOe4fNua6BYBSqb9jQ/about

Downtown Delhi. You'll often see red buildings.
Especially at the Red Fort, where there are many more.

The yellow vehicle you see in the photo is a rickshaw taxi. You can also call one through an app, and it cost about $2 for a 5-10 minute ride. 

 If you go with a local who negotiates the price, you can ride more cheaply. Conversely, if you ride alone with a clueless expression and hesitate, they might charge you $3 for a 1km distance. 

Rates can vary by period and city, so I downloaded an app called Bolt or something and used that. In situations where calling through the app was awkward, I added about $1 more to the app price, and there were no major conflicts. 

 On the other hand, when traveling with locals, I could ride for even less than the app price with their help. First, negotiate the price (you'll pay later). 

If they quote an unreasonable fare, you can just get off. Then you'll hear an "OK" that sounds similar to Metal Slug game sound, and you can pay that amount and go. There was one driver who suddenly said I needed to pay more money midway, but it was fine to just ignore him

 I also tried motorcycle taxis, and I remember they were a bit cheaper 😂

뉴델리 = New Delhi.    41 분 = 41 minute 

I remember taking a motorcycle taxi from New Delhi to Ghaziabad for just a few dollars. 

Even though capital cities in most countries tend to be quite expensive, India felt affordable. 

However, it's true that you need to be careful about scams and pickpockets. 

I once handed $5 to a motorcycle taxi driver in advance, and he just took it and drove away, leaving me staring at his back.

 Even as I was giving him the money, I wondered if this atmosphere felt like a scam, and when it turned out to be one, I felt deflated

Akshardham Temple. You cannot take videos or photos inside, and when I tried to film from far outside, they did not allow it.

The power of law enforcement in India was much stronger than in Korea. 

I didn't see Indian police carrying batons and beating people as I had seen on the internet, but people generally avoided major conflicts with the Indian police and mostly complied with police instructions without argument. 

They occasionally kept an eye on me, but unlike corrupt police in some countries, they didn't demand money from tourists or harass them. 

On the positive side, the more I actively cooperated with Indian police and security guards and tried to befriend them, the more they smiled and could potentially accommodate me. 

 For example, photography is prohibited at the Akshardham Temple, and as I later found out, even video recording outside was forbidden. 

After apologizing to them and putting away my camera, a middle-aged police officer smilingly told me that filming might be okay in a certain area.

I went there and was recording video when eventually another officer came and warned me that filming wasn't allowed there. 

Then the first officer came over and had a word with him. I was granted permission for a very brief video recording, and I thanked them and apologized. 

They saw me off with smiles. Most public places and large buildings, including department stores and train stations, had security checkpoints where bags needed to be scanned before entering

The Indian summer is very humid and hot, with occasional sudden rainfall. Buying a long scarf-style towel from the street or shops was quite helpful. Indian people often use these scarves frequently too. 

They're very useful for blocking the sun or wiping away sweat, and I was able to purchase one for about $2.

Scenes of India during the era of British rule.

Even just considering places accessible by transportation near New Delhi, there were many sights worth seeing from various perspectives. 

It felt like 3 nights and 4 days were too short. 

I also wanted to visit the Taj Mahal, but I had to leave the country, so I felt a bit disappointed that I couldn't go

This is a street food called Golgappa. It was somewhat sweet... and had a bit of a salty taste(?) 

I thought it would taste like orange... but it was a bit ambiguous to call it an orange flavor, and it had a unique taste. Should I describe it as the taste of ammonia?

"I enjoyed a variety of street food with authentic Indian flavors, but I couldn't bring myself to eat the coconut dessert sold in the park. 

The vendor was constantly wiping sweat with his hands in the hot weather and then mixing the coconut with those same hands—I detected a 400% chance of disaster if I ate it. 

Even the local accompanying me shook their head, saying I'd be in trouble if I ate that. I suspect the secret to the milky gray broth of the coconut dessert was the vendor's electrolytes.

Later, a kid about 10 years old came and bought it, which made me wonder if I could have tried it too if I were a bit younger. 

As for my review of the street food, it had unique flavors that seemed tasty but somewhat unfamiliar to my Korean palate. 

The broth in the hollow bread in the f irst picture had a sweet taste with some interesting notes I couldn't quite identify, and the orange juice in the second picture had a surprisingly different f lavor than what I was expecting. 

Still, it was hot, and my local friend was drinking it too, so I trusted them and downed it in one shot. 

 I didn't experience the stomach pains or nausea cases you often see on the internet. However, I did have diarrhea until the second day of my arrival in Azerbaijan. 

I was somewhat prepared, so I went to the pharmacy first, told them I would be eating street food, took the medicine they gave me, and then ate the street food, which is probably why I was relatively safe. 

In the next installment, I'll upload more miscellaneous memories from India before moving on to the Azerbaijan episode

Here is some additional information and precautions:  

• If you are traveling to India for the first time, I recommend using the Uber app. 
• Always pay the fare when you arrive at your final destination. Occasionally, you may encounter drivers who request additional fees midway, but firmly refuse. There may be instances where foreigners are charged extra fees. 
• Don't worry too much and negotiate for the price you want. I have often come across cases of travelers experiencing stomach issues in India. According to the information, it's best to avoid iced drinks if possible. 
• you have a sensitive stomach or are worried about travel disruptions due to stomach issues, purchase a bottle of drinking water to rinse your mouth and finish with mouthwash when brushing your teeth. 
•  There is information suggesting that medications sold locally in India may be more effective than those purchased before entering the country. In my personal opinion, the public safety in New Delhi is relatively secure. 
• If you are preparing for an independent trip rather than a package tour, maintain contact with a trustworthy local acquaintance or seek assistance from Mr Navin's market. ( 867, Chandi Wali Gali, near Hotel Silver Street, Ratan Lal Market, Kaseru Walan, Paharganj, New Delhi, Delhi 110055 I was worried about fraud, lost luggage, and traffic congestion on the way from the international airport in New Delhi to my accommodation. 
• Since I didn't prepare a SIM card in advance, I was also worried about how to catch the Uber taxi app, but I just booked a pick up taxi in Korea in advance, and the price was reasonable. 
• It wasn't a big burden to invest about $10 for two bags and safety.  I asked Mr. Navin for this part too. 
• Thanks to his help, I was able to safely get to Mr. Navin's shop with the help of the taxi driver who picked me up at the airport, where I bought an internet SIM card and exchanged money.. He is usually very busy and I found a post saying that there is a cheaper exchange place, but he gave me a satisfactory exchange rate and he was trustworthy