Forgotten Land: Travel Guide to Transnistria & Moldova

At a small museum I found in Tiraspol, there were various souvenirs on display... I especially liked the plastic coin, so I decided to buy it.😋

Propaganda sculpture found in underground bunker restaurant

 Славься, Отечество наше свободное 

 Дружбы народов надёжный оплот!

Early evening at 8 PM, the Soviet anthem echoed throughout the accommodation. 

Young men in their 20s stood up, all staring solemnly beyond the wall. 

Perhaps where they were gazing, though it didn't actually exist, a red Soviet Union flag would have been fluttering. 

After passionately singing the chorus together, when the song ended, they clapped while laughing and began to play Soviet folk songs.

Signs on the streets of Tiraspol, the capital of Transnistria

Locals waiting for a bus at the station.
'Kacca' is a Russian word that means a ticket booth(or counter) 

Transnistria. More familiarly known to them as the Pridnestrovian Republic, it is a small country that broke away from Moldova. 

While Moldova considers the Transnistria region as part of 'Moldova,' the residents here simply regard this place as their own land separate from Moldova. 

Moldovan (Romanian) is not used here. 

Wherever you go, signs are written only in Russian, and the soldiers guarding the border were wearing Ratnik military uniforms from Russia. 

Despite being a somewhat closed country, this nation steadily attracts foreigners every year.

For tourists from Europe and America who are interested in Soviet culture or want to explore different regions, Transnistria is not difficult to visit and would be quite a mysterious and interesting country. 

The capital, Tiraspol, is just a small city with about 100,000 residents, but it has administrative and judicial institutions that make up the structure of a country, and there were even several banks.

Wandering through the outskirts of the city, I frequently encountered the skeletal remains of buildings crumbling walls, half-finished structures, and scattered piles of bricks—silent witnesses to a bygone era.

The rust-colored columns of an unfinished structure stood silently on the outskirts of Tiraspol. Perhaps once envisioned as a bustling factory, now only its skeletal frame remains, a solitary monument to abandoned ambitions.

A view from the outskirts of Tiraspol: old cars and a distant railway line.
The vehicles may be aged, but they add a unique charm to the scene.

(Downtown Tiraspol, the capital. Though not large in scale, sophisticated and clean buildings had been erected, and it was being modernized and tidied up compared to the surrounding areas.) 

An abandoned underpass found on the outskirts of Tiraspol.
No longer in use, it was overgrown with vegetation

(The appearance of an unused underground passage where trees had grown - inside there was nothing special, just bushes and darkness.) 

Among the various nations that arose after the collapse of the Soviet Union, each has developed or declined, struggling to break free from the shackles of the past or longing for old nostalgia, but is there any country that has preserved the feeling of a Cold War-era federation as much as this place? 

This country, which might hold the title of the poorest in Europe alongside Ukraine, unlike Ukraine, is not experiencing direct war, but I felt that the country itself has remained stagnant from the past until now, slowly oxidizing in red.

However, this country was by no means an unfortunate nation steeped in poverty. They have been preserving such urban appearances as tourist attractions, and people were living ordinary daily lives.

In line with the constantly changing currents of the world, in their daily lives, young people were taking university classes to move toward the future, while those left behind seemed to be observing the political situations of neighboring countries with curious eyes, building their own families, and quietly waiting for a time of prosperity.

Things I discovered during my visit to a restaurant in Tiraspol.

 (Outside the restaurant, everyday household appliances used by people during the Soviet era were displayed.)

 Portraits and photographs of famous figures. Before 1991, these frames would have been hanging throughout the interior of buildings

 (A restaurant with a Soviet underground bunker concept. The food was ordinary, and many tourists, following guides or gathered in groups, enjoyed meals here. Perhaps because it was underground, the internet connection was completely lost, so I had to eat while watching repetitive, boring old dramas.) 

 As the reviews also state, here you could see most of the city on a short 2-day, 1-night schedule, and that was all. Tourists enjoyed meals at several buildings that gave a Soviet era feel, tasted wine stored in underground cellars, watched movies at a nearby theater in the evening, and those who liked alcohol chatted with local young people at small clubs that only opened on Fridays and Saturdays.

The national flag of Transnistria displayed along the roadside.

 Statue in the park located in Slobozia 

The special quality of this place wasn't just the cultural heritage left from the Soviet era. During the month I stayed here, I wandered around various parts of the city, enjoying the surrounding peace and relaxation. 

Although it was somewhat boring, I had to stay here to wait for winter clothes being sent from Korea, so my main activities were taking walks and chatting with newly arriving tourists, accompanying them. 

However, even amidst the somewhat cold gazes of people, there were neighbors who showed curiosity and warmth towards me, and the time spent with them gave me small happiness and joy, so I felt some regret at the moment of leaving this place.

Transnistria is referred to in Russian as "Приднестровье" (Pridnestrovie), which is the commonly used short form.The official full name in Russian is "Приднестровская Молдавская Республика" (Pridnestrovskaya Moldavskaya Respublika), abbreviated as ПМР (PMR).

Tiraspol on a rainy and thundery day

"Min, we Russians don't usually smile much, but we have warm hearts too." 

"In Ukraine, please don't go around smiling stupidly. You don't need to be that friendly." 

Just as Ukrainians and Russians seemed somewhat reserved, the impression of the people I met here and there felt cold. 

There was an elderly woman who scolded me to speak in Russian when I said the word 'egg' in English to a clerk because she didn't understand my somewhat awkward Russian, and I also experienced rather explicit discriminatory looks, but otherwise, most people seemed friendly. 

At first, I wasn't accustomed to their cold demeanor, but it was a kind of their culture and identity. 

When I was walking in the rain late at night from Bender, located at the Moldovan border, to Tiraspol, an hour's distance away, because the transportation had stopped, there was a man I met at a mart who was willing to help if needed. And when I first arrived at the station

here, there was an elderly couple who, postponing their own destination, accompanied me to help with currency exchange and mobile phone activation when I was wandering around unable to find my accommodation. 

Seeing me pulling large luggage and looking around here and there, a lady who wanted to help me asked what I needed and took me to a restaurant. Thinking back on her kindness, I believe my friend was right. 

The people here usually treated me with indifference and stolid expressions, but when I appeared to need help, they would approach without hesitation and ask if I needed assistance. 

Come to think of it, I also remember a woman who, perhaps noticing my typical Korean impatience at standing in line and waiting for a long time, stepped back to give up her spot, saying that I seemed to be in a hurry.

Буратино (Buratino) is a traditional soft drink popular in the former Soviet Union and Russian-speaking countries, known for its sweet, citrus or lemon-flavored taste

(It seemed to be a carbonated drink with an apple flavor, probably from Russia. Due to the background that looks like the Japanese flag, it probably cannot be imported to Korea.) 

"I still don't think we will become one with Moldova." That's what Tanya, who was accompanying me on a walk, told me. 

"Some people might think that would be better, but I don't know Romanian well. 

People here are just used to how we are now. 

We can have Moldovan passports, but I still don't have one. Anyway, it's not a big issue since I can go to Russia with my passport." 

Like Tanya, a friend who thought they were destined to stay here for life, and a group of young students planning to leave for somewhere abroad, it seemed somewhat awkward for them to become one with Moldova. 

"Sorry, but I don't know Romanian well. Oh, I know a little! Still, Russian is more comfortable." Although there are many Russian speakers in Moldova, while most of them are familiar with Moldovan (Romanian), for the people here, Russian was their native language, and they seemed to have emotions more accustomed to Russia. 

"I don't know what future awaits us, but if Transnistria merges with Moldova, and furthermore, if we all become part of the European Union, will they and we be able to get along better and become more prosperous than before? I'm not sure." 

As I write this, I recall what a taxi driver said while chatting in Chisinau, Moldova, where I returned later. 

Among them, there were people who held the opinion that they should become more peaceful and closer for their future, but the desire for the unification of Moldova and Transnistria still seemed somewhat cold and distant

A school playground in Slovozia

Even now, children are playing in the old school playgrounds of Transnistria, and their parents and young people are working to provide a better future for themselves and their children. 

A small port on the Dniester River in Tiraspol. Small boats pass by.

I conclude this travelogue with the hope that all the people there, including those who showed me warm interest and gave me their time, even if they can't enjoy comfort and prosperity commensurate with the effort they put in right now, will someday resolve the distant relationships with neighboring countries and experience more exchanges and development together. 

*Regarding the relationships and conflicts between Transnistria, Moldova, and neighboring countries mentioned in this post, I have only included my personal opinions based on conversations with some residents of the area, and there may be inaccuracies or differences of opinion.   

Here is some additional information and precautions:

• Transnistria has the world's first issued plastic coins. They are mainly sold to tourists and aren't frequently used in everyday life, but they are quite popular items among collectors. 

• In 2024, 1 Transnistrian ruble could be exchanged for about $0.06, and the price of a plastic coin set was around $9.1, though I don't remember exactly. 

• There are banks about 10-20 minutes' walk from the city center, and there are pamphlets indicating that they sell plastic coins, so you should be able to find them easily by asking locals or accommodation staff about the bank locations. 

Location of bookstore and banks selling plastic coins: 

 

 (They were not sold at street souvenir stalls or currency exchange offices, but at banks and a bookstore located next to the bank. 

*At the bookstore, they are not wrapped in paper like this but given in disposable bags. There was a price difference of about $0.7-1.4, but I recommend purchasing them at the bank.) 

•   Here are the locations of restaurants with Soviet concepts. Cantina URSS has an underground bunker concept, and Back in the USSR restaurant has an outdoor atmosphere. Both are worth visiting, and their price ranges weren't significantly different, but in terms of food quality, Back in the USSR was somewhat superior.

• 

 

This is the economical accommodation (hostel) where I stayed. It offers both private rooms and dormitories, and the owner is very kind and warm. 

When I experienced a theft incident once, the owner accompanied me to the police station and stayed with me for nearly two hours, explaining everything, which helped catch the culprit. 

 The advantages of this place are that there is a communal kitchen where you can store and cook food, and the dormitories are kept very clean (the owner comes frequently to clean them). Also, there are many foreigners from various countries staying here, so you can communicate with them and explore the surroundings together.

They use WhatsApp, so you can contact them with any questions when making a reservation. You can book through Booking.com or contact them via WhatsApp to make a reservation. 

• Meals cost about $7 per meal, or around $14-21 at busy areas (downtown) or hotel restaurants. When adding wine separately, I could choose affordable, good quality wines in the $7-21 range. (More expensive wines are also available) 

• There are no Korean restaurants, but there is a Japanese restaurant in the center.

• You can eat beef at restaurants, but most butcher shops dealt primarily with pork and chicken. For the taxi app, search for 15-17 in the Play Store, and you'll find the taxi 15-17 app. You can use one-way trips around Tiraspol city for about $3-3.5. 

•  Usually, visitors are given a 24-48 hour visa (depending on circumstances, they may give up to a week), and if you want to extend your visa, you can go to the government office with your passport, mention the hotel address and location where you'll be staying, and apply. 

• The government office is located at Tekstilshchikov St 36, Tiraspol. Since it's a bit far from the city center, I recommend taking a taxi (it costs about $3-3.5 to get there by taxi).

The exterior of a government office for visa extensions.

The apartment is opposite the government office for visa extensions.
If you have trouble finding the way, check if you can see this apartment.

When moving from Chisinau, Moldova to Tiraspol or from Tiraspol to Chisinau: Tiraspol -> Chisinau https://maps.app.goo.gl/WRfhJWP6M3rcvWMo8 You can take a minivan from here. It takes about 1-1.5 hours, and the fare is approximately $3.5-4.2 one way. 

The ticket office is on the left side based on the middle of the building. 

Chisinau -> Tiraspol https://maps.app.goo.gl/sRJzgqDKT5ksrzd3A The ticket office for minivans to Tiraspol is located outside the terminal. The one-way fare is similar to the above.

Even if you don't go to the terminal, as the bus stops at intermediate stations based on Tiraspol, you can board from those stations if you remember them, but since it might be difficult to find the exact address if you're not a local, I recommend going to the address in the link above.

Transnistrian exchange rate.

Currency exchange office hours. They work on Sundays too.

 These are the currency exchange office hours. Exchange offices are located throughout the city and operate until 4:40 PM even on Sundays.

 I used the currency exchange office located inside the market at the lower part of Strada Sverdlov street shown in the photo.

 There is also a currency exchange office inside the building at this address

 When moving between cities within Transnistria, you can use the intercity bus terminal next to Green Mart or the Tiraspol bus station mentioned above. 

This is the mobile phone rate table.

I received information from locals in Moldova that Moldova SIM cards can be used in Transnistria, but after trying both Orange and Moldcell carriers, they were almost unusable in Tiraspol, Transnistria. Sometimes there is limited connectivity, but it was almost impossible. 

The cheapest rate is 100 rubles, which is about $6-6.3. 

• For shipping services, I recommend using the central post office, and when shipping from other countries to Tiraspol, you can address it as Country: Moldova, City: Tiraspol, and then your detailed address. It took about 2-3 weeks.