- Money Changers on the Streets of Isfahan and Shiraz - Revival of the Empire (Iran)

 

Iranian 1 million rial banknote close-up

The value of this banknote is about $1.25 at current rates (80,530 tomans per dollar(2025.01.22) - For Iran rial or toman exchange rate information 1 toman equals 10 rials), and 2$ is enough money for an inexpensive meal or a cup of coffee.

Sepah street. There are many money changers here.

When dealing with unofficial exchanges or individual money changers on the street, not official exchanges like banks, one should always be tense. 

This is because naive-looking foreigners in the eyes of those approaching with friendly faces might become good prey. 

Once in Iran, the drama 'Jumong' brought about a tremendous craze, so for middle-aged people, what comes to mind when thinking of Koreans was 'Jumong'. 

They kept exclaiming 'Korea! Jumong!' as they approached me and offered various exchange rates. Six months ago from now, the exchange rate was 57,000 tomans per dollar, but as the conflict between Israel and Iran intensified, the rate went beyond 60,000, then 70,000... and now, for some reason, it has been over 80,000 rials for a long time. I experienced everything from bottom-dealing to being transferred less money than promised, but fortunately, with the help of local friends, I was able to avoid all of them. Even when accompanied by locals, I sometimes burst out laughing at the audacity of money changers who offered ridiculous exchange rates. 

In fact, I think they were quite conscientious. This is because the amount they tried to skim was only about 2-3 dollars out of 200-300 dollars. 

However, as a foreigner, I dealt with it firmly because I was afraid that if I overlooked such behavior, there might be a perception that Koreans are easy prey.

Since the money changer streets are located near cultural heritage sites or parks that many tourists visit, I could easily explore cultural heritage sites after exchanging money. 

Despite the hot weather, people enjoyed relaxing here, and perhaps because most cultural heritage sites were stone buildings made with quality, abundant stone materials, the sites had been solidly maintained for hundreds to thousands of years. 

 Although it was a closed country, I could occasionally see Europeans, and while the entrance fees were somewhat different from locals, they were not very burdensome at just a few dollars.

Despite having been invaded for thousands of years, the Persians always rose again to bring about revival and projected powerful influence on neighboring countries. 

For them, who never forget that even Iskandar (Alexander), whom they hate so much, was completely immersed in Persian culture despite their history of being conquered by the Macedonian Empire in ancient times and later by the Arabs, Persian ruins and culture are their honor like their blood and the foundation of the republic that continues to this day, the brilliant glory of the past that cannot be denied or erased. 

Even ancient Greek historians described that 'Persians were tall, handsome, and had elegant postures. 

They loved luxury and enjoyed wearing splendid clothes,' leaving various expressions of praise and envy for their splendor, wealth, and vast territory, showing how magnificent the country was. 

However, as time passed, Iranians were shocked by their portrayal in the movie 300, made in a distant foreign country, and suffered wounds that could never be washed away. 

Even after more than a decade, they are still anxious about whether people from other countries think of them in a disgusting way.

The palaces of Isfahan and Shiraz, as well as the mansions of the wealthy that remain to this day, are precious heritage that allows one to feel the prosperity of Persia at that time, and they were being maintained very cleanly despite hundreds and thousands of visitors daily. 

Even in difficult economic situations, caretakers were meticulously maintaining the ruins and surrounding facilities, and because they had cool air conditioning turned on inside, I could view the artworks without suffering from the heat.

A bustling Persian bazaar with vaulted ceilings, fabric vendors, and a lively atmosphere steeped in tradition.

An intricate Persian carpet on display, showcasing centuries of craftsmanship and symbolic design.

In the traditional market, which remains exactly as it was hundreds of years ago, I could see splendid crafts, accessories, and carpets. 

While looking at wooden carvings and accessories made one by one by craftsmen, what caught my eye most was the Persian carpet. 

Uncle Iraj, who introduced himself as having been selling Persian carpets for decades, handed me a cup of warm saffron tea, saying to freely look around at all the carpets here. 'The colors and patterns of carpets have various meanings. 

For example, this pattern you're looking at now was mainly gifted to those who became couples. Especially, the older the carpet, the more rare patterns you can find. Among the ones we have, there are some really old ones.' 

 I remember having a delightful time looking at the unique designs and patterns as he showed me a carpet made about 50 years ago, while boasting about the excellent quality of Persian carpets that increase in value as they age. 

Also, one of the interesting things was to look at the reviews of travelers written in the guestbook he showed.

For handmade carpets, small ones started at $150, adult-sized ones were twice that price, and products made of natural silk could be purchased for $3,000. 

Interestingly, foreign credit cards could be used for payment here. He explained that there was a system to process payments through Dubai, and he asserted that if desired, he could send all carpets to Korea too, just by paying appropriate shipping costs. 

It was hard to resist the fact that Persian carpets that I had seen in department stores for millions of won could be purchased here for just hundreds of thousands of won including shipping costs. 

 In addition, saffron could be bought at $30 for 3g, so I purchased a few to give as gifts to friends and to taste with the money I had exchanged.

Radiant beams of sunlight filter through stained glass windows, illuminating a traditional Persian interior.

 A dazzling Persian ceiling adorned with mirror work and colorful detail, reflecting centuries of artistic mastery.

A glittering Persian ceiling adorned with delicate mirror work and royal portrait motifs, reflecting luxurious Qajar-era artistry.

A traveler stands inside a dazzling mirror hall, where reflections multiply in a maze of glass and light.

Not far to walk, mansions where the wealthy and aristocrats lived were also open for viewing, and looking at the old aristocrats' mansions that felt more splendid than palaces, I could feel a magnificence and grandeur that was by no means inferior to Europe and other countries. 

Walking around the room of mirrors, which could be called the ultimate in luxury, I was busy taking pictures while speechlessly wandering around in its splendor.

 After stopping by the money changer street in Shiraz and finishing the exchange, I was wandering around looking for a store to buy drinking water when I came across some young men at a construction site. 

While chatting with them, I entered a small mart nearby, where the mart owner(He was very humorous and a good person😂) sat me in his seat and blocked me from leaving while driving away the young men.😂😂 

Only after I repeatedly told him that I was going out to smoke with them for a while did he reluctantly permit. 

As I later found out, the uncle secretly followed us out and took pictures together.

Dragged back to the mart by the mart owner, I appreciated the mart and received various gifts while talking, when the uncle told me his hobby was drawing, showed me hundreds of pictures he had drawn over time, and I could appreciate each and every one of these various drawings he had drawn by hand. 

The uncle said he would give me one of those precious drawings as a gift, took one out, wrote his personal signature, and handed it to me

On the way back to Korea from Europe, some gifts given by that uncle were broken, but I carefully brought this drawing home. I wanted to stay longer, but I had to go south. 

I couldn't attach everything because of attachment size limits, but the people I met near the streets there are still unforgettable even as I write this. 

People who were active, curious, and loved to talk. The image of Persians described by historians thousands of years ago still continues unchanged to this day. 

Perhaps that's why, despite the hot weather, the place was full of people walking in the park and chatting without losing their smiles. 

Probably, in the memories of travelers who passed through here hundreds and thousands of years ago, such images of Persians remained.

 Here is some additional information and precautions: 

• When entering Iran by land, try to avoid very late night arrivals. If you enter late at night, you won't find any place to exchange money. It's also impossible to activate your mobile phone. 
• As of March 25, 2025, the current exchange rate in Iran is 98000 tomans to 1 dollar. When I traveled there, it was approximately 57000 tomans 2024. 
• Prices are very affordable. I stayed at economy hotels for about $8-20. Although sometimes the toilet had low water pressure, I was generally satisfied, and people were friendly. 
• When activating your phone, be sure to ask if they can install a VPN for you. It will be a great help to you. Never forget this. If the employee is a very nice person, give them a small tip and then look for a paid VPN. Free VPNs are sufficient, but paid VPNs perform very well. 
• The Snapp app is almost essential for travelers. If you have a close local friend, ask for their help. It has all the necessary functions such as delivery, finding accommodation, calling taxis, etc
• When calling a taxi with the Snapp app, drivers often cancel for intercity travel because the price is too low. Once a driver accepts your call, try to negotiate paying more with a Persian message. While there are drivers who will take you to your destination at the price suggested by the Snapp app, if you can't get a Snapp taxi for a long time, it wasn't bad to offer about 1.5 times the price via message. Even if you offer a slightly higher price, it is still very reasonable compared to travel in other countries. If all else fails, try finding taxi drivers directly and negotiate the price. 
• When dealing with money changers, check the real-time unofficial exchange rate channels. When I traveled, the unofficial exchange rate was 57,000 tomans per dollar, and as of March 28, 2025, it's about 100,000 tomans. The official exchange rate is somewhat lower in value. When the unofficial rate was 1:57,000 tomans, I exchanged at about 1:56,000 tomans on the street, and this was a better rate because I used bank transfer with the help of my Iranian friend. If you have dollars in cash, suggest an exchange rate of about 1:56,000 to them. Based on the current March 28 exchange rate of 1:102,800, I would request a cash exchange of 1:98,000~100,000 tomans. 
• In the bazaars of Isfahan and Shiraz, there are many high-quality carpets and spices. They can ship carpets to your country of residence. I received help from Mr. Iraj in Isfahan.  Adress : https://maps.app.goo.gl/Pjq7Se9XfTft4BBZ8